Hiking and Nature Experiences on the Tisvildevejen Trail

...for as he wrote: "You can walk your way out of problems."

By Daniel Villadsen

I had the pleasure of exploring the beautiful Tisvildevejen hiking trail in October, surrounded by the vibrant colours of autumn. On a sunny October day, my partner and I checked into Pensionat Kildegaard in Tisvildeleje—a charming place full of character, unique rooms, a cosy lounge aptly named "Grandma's Living Room," and a warm, family-like atmosphere. From this delightful base, we set out to enjoy a couple of days of hiking, immersed in the natural beauty of North Zealand's autumn landscape

We first drove to Esrum Abbey—the true destination of the historic pilgrimage route. This old abbey was a significant centre of power and culture during the Middle Ages, owning most of the land in North Zealand. The courtyard was bustling with activity, as families visited during the autumn holidays.

Here, visitors could learn about the abbey's impressive history, take a stroll in the courtyard garden, or try their hand at medieval food preservation techniques in the workshop stations. There was also a treasure hunt with various task stations scattered throughout the area, which we saw many families with children enthusiastically exploring.

From Esrum Abbey, we followed the well-marked trails down to Esrum Lake—a place we had previously explored by kayak earlier in late summer. It was exciting to see the lake from a new perspective. We walked through the expansive forests of Gribskov, soaking in the tranquillity. Shades of green, yellow, and orange glowed in the sunlight streaming through the treetops, casting long beams of light across the path.

A short break on a stone at the water’s edge gave us time to enjoy the warmth of the sun and listen to the gentle lapping of the waves. The crisp autumn air and the wealth of sensory impressions helped us relax, drop our shoulders, and breathe deeply. A squirrel darted across the path in front of us and scurried energetically up an oak tree, pausing to curiously watch us from above.

We enjoyed our lunch break in the sunshine by the charming old Pibe Mill. Standing proudly atop a hill, it offers a stunning view of the surrounding landscape. The sun warmed us as cows grazed peacefully in the field beside the mill.

We continued to Ramløse Harbour, where we parked the car and set out to explore Ramløse Hills. A couple of herons flew overhead as we started our hike. The glacial imprint on the rolling landscape was unmistakable, and along the trail, we discovered a charming little firepit with a panoramic view of Denmark’s largest lake, Arresø.

The final stop of the day was Tisvilde Hegn. In an open, grass-covered clearing deep within the forest lies the ruins of Asserbo Castle, steeped in legends from a bygone era. From here, you can wander through the vast forest, past many ancient relics and burial mounds, all the way to the sea. As the autumn sun sank lower in the sky, the shadows began to grow longer.

We followed the trails toward the sunset. The tall pine trees towered above us, gradually giving way to the twisted pine and birch trees of the famous Troldeskoven (The Troll Forest) as we approached the coast. The sound of crashing waves grew louder the closer we got to the beach.

We savoured the sunset from the dunes on the beach, overlooking the sea that stretched out to the north. Afterwards, we made our way back through the forest and returned to the guesthouse.

The next day, we explored more of Tisvilde Hegn, following the hiking trail from Tisvildeleje Beach. Much of the route can be walked along the shoreline, offering a calming experience as you listen to the waves and feel the salty breeze on your face. Along the way, we even encountered a couple of riders out exercising their horses in the autumn sunshine.

After a lovely day exploring the forest and beach, we returned to the car, feeling refreshed and recharged in both body and mind.

Hiking the Tisvildevejen is the perfect way to slow down, take in the sensory impressions, and enjoy nature at your own pace.

About the Author

Daniel Villadsen hails from Odense and combines his passion for the outdoors with his work as a freelance photographer. You can see his photos on Instagram (@dvphoto.dk), where he also shares travel tips, on “Daniel Villadsen Photography” on Facebook, as well as on his website.