Join Daniel on the Tisvildevejen trail from Hillerød to Melby Common

On a warm spring day in May, when the yellow hues of the rapeseed fields dominated the landscape, my partner and I drove to North Zealand to explore the Tisvildevejen trail. We planned to experience unique Danish nature, spend the night at a hammock hotel and a charming Bed and breakfast, and hike some new stages of this scenic walking route.

Day 1: Esrum Abbey - Hillerød

Our first hike began at the historic Esrum Monastery, continued along Esrum Lake through Grib Forest, and ended in Hillerød. Esrum Monastery was originally the primary destination of this ancient pilgrimage route. During the Middle Ages, the grand monastery was an important centre of power and culture, as it owned most of the land in North Zealand.

The route along Esrum Lake is a true delight to hike. The ancient oak trees in the forest stood tall and majestic, their fresh light-green leaves glowing as the spring sunlight filtered through. A pair of ducks swam along the lake’s edge, and a grass snake rustled in the grass, quickly retreating into the shadows as we passed by. Along the shore of Esrum Lake, there are several fire and shelter sites. Some are nestled under the trees right by the water's edge, offering a stunning panoramic view of the lake.

We struck up a conversation with an older man who was setting up his tent at one of the shelter sites. He was on a multi-day kayaking trip and shared how much he enjoyed exploring the area from the water. His kayak rested neatly by the shoreline, while his gear hung out to dry in the sun.

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We continued and passed a group of ponies grazing in the shade behind a small enclosure. Soon, we found a lovely lunch spot with a view of Fredensborg Palace, located at the end of a green avenue on the opposite side of the lake.

After our lunch break, we continued through the forest until we reached the main road to Nødebo, where we made a refreshing ice cream pit stop at the local Netto to recharge our energy in the summer heat.

When we arrived in Hillerød, we checked into the cosy DanHostel Hillerød, where we had a nice double room. The hostel is located on the outskirts of Hillerød, close to Store Dyrehave, making it an ideal base for exploring the area.

The hostel features green spaces and inviting common areas that encourage relaxation and togetherness. A group of children on a school trip played on the grass and the playground behind the hostel buildings, while we enjoyed the afternoon sun.

After a warm shower, we headed down to Hillerød Square, where we enjoyed delicious tapas and wine at Torvets Vinbar. We savoured a tasty tapas platter and soaked in the unique ambience of the charming wine bar, while soft music played from the speakers. It was the perfect way to end our first day of hiking.

Day 2: Hillerød - Kagerup

Day 2 began with a refreshing breakfast at the hostel, after which we set out to hike one of the new stages, stretching from Hillerød to Kagerup. This addition allows hikers to start their journey directly from Hillerød, providing more opportunities to quickly immerse themselves in nature.

Along the route, we noticed that it was still being developed, with signs and the characteristic red posts being put in place. We decided to hike the route "backwards," parking the car at Slotspavillionen Station in Hillerød and taking the train to Kagerup, from where we hiked back towards Hillerød.

The new stage led us through several scenic landscapes, including idyllic lakes, rolling hills, and dense beech forests.

After approximately 14 km of hiking, we returned to the car and drove to our next accommodation: Haldbjerg Naturcampus.

We had previously stayed here in one of their cosy shelters, so it was a pleasure to return. This time, we were set to try out Tibberuphus’ new hammock hotel. Tibberuphus, the old forester’s house managed by Haldbjerg Naturcampus, offers a unique experience where you can bring your hammock and spend the night in a charming covered shelter beneath the treetops.

We were greeted by Tonny from Haldbjerg Naturcampus, who showed us around and told us about the many exciting updates since our last visit. For dinner, Tonny provided us with their delicious Meal Box from the café at Tibberuphus. The box was filled with high-quality local ingredients, including locally produced meat and vegetables, and even included both a starter and dessert.

We got the fire going and prepared the meal over the open flames, following the detailed guide/recipe included in the box. As the sun set on the horizon and the crackling fire mixed with the sound of birdsong, the atmosphere was pure magic. I’m a big fan of this cosy concept, which actively involves you in the process. And as always, a campfire invites great conversations, reflection, and a sense of calm.

After enjoying the delicious meal, the first bright stars began to appear in the night sky, and we settled in for the night.

Day 3: Kagerup - Tisvilde

The next morning, we were served an exceptionally delicious breakfast from the cosy café cart at Tibberuphus. Along with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, we enjoyed bread from a local bakery, local apple juice, and more. We had a lovely chat with Tonny and his wife before saying our goodbyes and heading back on the road to explore the final leg of the hiking route from Kagerup to Tisvilde Hegn.

Along the way, we made a stop at Pibe Mølle. Perched on a hilltop, the windmill offers a stunning view over the lush summer landscape.

In Tisvilde Hegn, we parked at Asserbo Castle Ruin, located in a grassy clearing within the vast forest. From there, we hiked through the woods, carrying a daypack filled with snacks and a packed lunch for a picnic by the beach.

Tisvilde Hegn is one of my favourite spots on the trail. The vegetation is wonderfully diverse, with birch trees and tall, slender pines standing side by side in the sandy soil. We followed the winding forest paths, enjoying the scent of resin and the warmth of the spring sun on our faces, while the distant sound of the ocean’s waves added to the peaceful atmosphere.

The closer we got to the coast, the more twisted the trees became—a sign that we had reached the famous Troll Forest. Here, you’ll find the quirkiest, most beautiful, and gnarled trees—a part of the forest where it’s okay to lose yourself a little and simply enjoy the sensory experience.

After six hours of hiking through the dense forest, the terrain opened up into a vast dune landscape stretching for miles in both directions, offering stunning views of the coastline and beach.

We enjoyed our picnic in the sun before making our way back to the car. From there, we drove to the final stop of our trip in Gilleleje. Upon arrival at the charming Høveltegaard Bed & Breakfast, we were warmly greeted by the welcoming hosts, Charlotte and Kenneth. They gave us a tour of the property, sharing stories about the farm’s history as a family estate and how it has evolved into the cosy Bed & Breakfast it is today.

We were delighted to stay in the old horse stable, which has been beautifully renovated into a lovely apartment complete with a private bathroom, living room, kitchen, and double bed. The apartment also had access to the lush backyard, featuring a grassy lawn, a greenhouse for relaxing, and a small pond. The place exudes rural charm and a homely atmosphere.

The farm is just a couple of kilometres from Gilleleje Harbor, so we borrowed two bicycles and rode down to enjoy dinner at one of the many cosy seafood restaurants.

We cycled back in the evening sun and settled into the charming greenhouse in the backyard to watch the sunset with a warm cup of tea. The next morning, we woke up to the loveliest breakfast spread, which Charlotte personally delivered. The service was outstanding, and the place had a calming and serene atmosphere.

As we drove home, we felt a deep sense of renewal and peace—recharged both physically and mentally. There’s certainly truth to Søren Kierkegaard’s words about walking—it truly is the balm for the soul.

Hiking is Balm for the Soul

Hiking the Tisvildevejen trail is the perfect way to slow down, immerse yourself in sensory experiences, and enjoy nature at your own pace. Along the way, we discovered plenty of unique natural and cultural attractions that invite small detours and spontaneous pit stops. So, if you're looking for inspiration for your next micro-adventure, Tisvildevejen is an excellent choice—trust me, you won’t regret it!

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