North Zealand in Low Gear: A 20-Hour Kayak and Shelter Adventure on Lake Esrum
Are you looking for inspiration for your next weekday adventure? Then head to one of North Zealand's natural gems: Lake Esrum. At the end of August, my partner and I set out to explore some of the many outdoor experiences the lake has to offer.
By Daniel Villadsen
On a sunny Monday, we met with the owners, Tine and Rune, from Sne og Vand, where we rented kayaks. They were incredibly welcoming and offered great tips on where to explore the lake by kayak. From the rental spot next to Restaurant Skipperhuset, we set course for the southern end of the lake.
Here, a hidden lagoon awaits, just shallow enough to enter by kayak. We paddled along the lakeshore, passing impressive houses, each with its own bathing jetty, evidence of the locals' active use of the lake. As we approached the boundary of the bird sanctuary, a passage opened between the lush trees, allowing us to paddle into the hidden lagoon.
Esrum Sø er Danmarks næststørste sø. Samtidig er det også Danmarks vandrigeste. Her er der frodig skov helt ned til søbredden, skjulte laguner og mulighed for at opleve et rigt fugleliv fra kajakken. Det er desuden kun tilladt for både at sejle med elmotor i søen, så der er hverken larm eller forurening at bekymre sig om.Photo:Daniel Villadsen
In the lagoon, the water was completely calm and still. We leaned back in our kayaks and took in the sight of the clear green treetops swaying in the breeze, while white clouds drifted across the deep blue sky. A pair of white swans flew overhead, their wings producing that distinctive sound. For a moment, time seemed to stand still as we quietly drifted in our kayaks.
Photo:Daniel Villadsen
From the lagoon, we continued paddling along the southwestern shore, where we found a charming little beach – the perfect spot to enjoy our lunch. Before the trip, we had picked up two delicious lunch rolls from Sørup Ishus, located just 100 meters from the kayak rental.
This beach was a fantastic picnic spot, complete with benches, a swing hanging from one of the trees, and the trail that circles the lake. After lunch, we paddled on to another recommended pit stop: Dronningens Bøge.
From the rustic bathing jetty on the western shore, there’s a direct view across to Fredensborg Palace on the lake’s eastern side. There’s also a lovely firepit shelter nearby where you can grill. As we passed by, we caught the scent of barbecue as a family was busy preparing their meal in the shelter.
After a short walk, we paddled across the lake, heading back toward our starting point to return the kayaks and set off for the next stop on our adventure: Haldbjerg Shelters.
Photo:Daniel Villadsen
After returning the kayaking gear to Sne og Vand, we drove to Haldbjerg, just a 15-minute drive from Lake Esrum. Here, you’ll find the idyllic Haldbjerg Shelters. Upon our arrival, we were warmly welcomed by the owner, Tonny, who gave us a tour of the site and enthusiastically shared the story behind this growing project.
We were assigned the “Bjerget” shelter, located on a picturesque hilltop. From there, we enjoyed a beautiful view of the nearby lake and the perfect vantage point for watching the sunrise.
Tonny had also prepared the wood-fired hot tub for us, so it would be ready after dinner. There was plenty of firewood and all the necessary equipment to cook over an open fire.
We cooked one-pot pasta over the fire while sampling some beers from the local brewery, Det Våde Får. Haldbjerg Shelters supports local businesses by offering beer and wine from nearby vineyards and microbreweries.
After enjoying the warm meal alongside the colourful sunset, it was time to explore the hot tub. As the stars became more visible in the sky, the water warmed us while the fire crackled in the stove. It was the perfect way to end the day.
When we finally slipped into our sleeping bags in the shelter, after admiring the clear night sky and spotting several shooting stars, we felt content and fulfilled – full of good food, great experiences, and new memories.
The next morning, we woke up to the most beautiful sunrise, its light streaming into the shelter. Later in the morning, Tonny stopped by with fresh eggs for our breakfast. "There were a few extras from the hens this morning," he said with a smile.
It’s small experiences and trips like this that add a little extra flavour to everyday life. In total, we were away for 20 hours. It was a manageable break from daily routines and a great way to recharge – all on an ordinary Monday- Tuesday!
When was the last time you made time for an everyday adventure?
Photo:Daniel Villadsen
About the Author:
Daniel Villadsen, based in Odense, combines his passion for the outdoors with his work as a freelance photographer. You can see his photos on Instagram (@dvphoto.dk), where he also shares travel tips, on Daniel Villadsen Photography on Facebook, and on his website.